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Microgreens

Microgreens are seedlings harvested 7–14 days after sowing, when the first true leaves are just emerging. They pack intense flavour, vivid colour and surprisingly high nutrient density into a tiny plant. No garden needed — a windowsill, a shallow tray and a packet of seeds are all it takes.

Why grow microgreens?

  • Harvest in 7–14 days — the fastest crop you can grow. From sowing to plate in under two weeks.
  • Nutrient-dense — studies show microgreens contain 4–40x the nutrient concentration of mature plants (vitamins C, E, K, beta-carotene).
  • Year-round — no frost dates, no outdoor space, no season. Grow on a windowsill or under a small LED in any month.
  • Minimal equipment — a shallow tray, growing medium, seeds. Total startup cost under 10 euros.
  • Flavour — radish microgreens are peppery, sunflower is nutty, pea shoots taste sweet. Far more intense than the adult plant.
  • Equipment

    Keep it simple — you don't need specialist gear.

    Trays

    Shallow trays (3–5 cm deep), with or without drainage holes. Purpose-made microgreen trays, takeaway containers with holes punched in, or standard seed trays all work. A second tray as a lid for the blackout phase.

    Growing medium

    Fine seed compost, coir mats, hemp mats, or even a few layers of unbleached kitchen paper. The plant doesn't need nutrients — it lives off the seed's reserves. Mats are cleaner and easier to handle than loose soil.

    Seeds

    Buy untreated seeds in bulk — microgreen-specific packets from seed suppliers are cheapest per gram. Regular vegetable seeds work too, just avoid any labelled as treated or coated.

    Light

    A bright windowsill is enough for most varieties. A small LED grow light (10–20 W) improves colour and compactness, especially in winter.

    How to grow

    The process is the same for almost every variety.

  • Soak large seeds (sunflower, pea, beetroot) for 8–12 hours. Small seeds (radish, broccoli, basil) don't need soaking.
  • Fill the tray with 2–3 cm of damp growing medium. Spread seeds densely — much thicker than garden sowing. Seeds should almost touch.
  • Mist with water, then cover with a second tray or lid (blackout phase). This forces the seedlings to stretch upward, giving you longer stems to harvest.
  • Check daily, mist if dry. After 2–4 days the seeds will have germinated and pushed up against the cover.
  • Remove the cover and move to light. The pale seedlings will green up within a day.
  • Water from below (pour into the outer tray) to keep stems dry and prevent mould.
  • Harvest with scissors at soil level when the first true leaves appear (day 7–14). Eat immediately — they don't store well.
  • Best varieties for beginners

    Radish

    The classic starter. Germinates in 1–2 days, ready in 6–8 days. Spicy, peppery kick. Pink stems look great on any plate.

    Sunflower

    Soak overnight. Thick, crunchy stems with a nutty flavour. Ready in 8–12 days. Remove the seed hull if it sticks to the leaves.

    Pea shoots

    Sweet, tender, taste like fresh peas. Ready in 10–14 days. Can regrow a second harvest from the same roots.

    Broccoli

    Mild, slightly earthy. One of the most nutrient-dense microgreens (high in sulforaphane). Ready in 8–10 days.

    Mustard / Mizuna

    Hot, wasabi-like bite. Germinates fast, ready in 7–10 days. Mix with milder varieties for balance.

    Basil

    Slow (12–16 days) but intensely aromatic. Needs warmth to germinate (22–25 °C). Worth the wait.

    Common problems

    Mould / fuzzy growth

    Cause: too wet, poor air circulation, seeds too dense. Fix: reduce watering, remove the cover earlier, space seeds slightly more. Note: white fuzz at the base of stems is often root hairs, not mould — spray with water and it disappears (mould doesn't).

    Leggy / falling over

    Cause: too little light after uncovering. Fix: move closer to the window or add a grow light.

    Uneven germination

    Cause: uneven watering, dry spots, or old seeds. Fix: mist evenly, use fresh seeds, pre-soak large seeds.

    Bitter taste

    Cause: harvested too late (past true-leaf stage) or too much light stress. Fix: harvest earlier, when cotyledons are fully open but before the first true leaf is large.

    Start with radish — it's almost impossible to fail. Once you have the rhythm (sow Monday, uncover Thursday, harvest next Monday), stagger multiple trays so you always have a fresh batch ready.