Microgreens
Microgreens are seedlings harvested 7–14 days after sowing, when the first true leaves are just emerging. They pack intense flavour, vivid colour and surprisingly high nutrient density into a tiny plant. No garden needed — a windowsill, a shallow tray and a packet of seeds are all it takes.
Why grow microgreens?
Equipment
Keep it simple — you don't need specialist gear.
Trays
Shallow trays (3–5 cm deep), with or without drainage holes. Purpose-made microgreen trays, takeaway containers with holes punched in, or standard seed trays all work. A second tray as a lid for the blackout phase.
Growing medium
Fine seed compost, coir mats, hemp mats, or even a few layers of unbleached kitchen paper. The plant doesn't need nutrients — it lives off the seed's reserves. Mats are cleaner and easier to handle than loose soil.
Seeds
Buy untreated seeds in bulk — microgreen-specific packets from seed suppliers are cheapest per gram. Regular vegetable seeds work too, just avoid any labelled as treated or coated.
Light
A bright windowsill is enough for most varieties. A small LED grow light (10–20 W) improves colour and compactness, especially in winter.
How to grow
The process is the same for almost every variety.
Best varieties for beginners
Radish
The classic starter. Germinates in 1–2 days, ready in 6–8 days. Spicy, peppery kick. Pink stems look great on any plate.
Sunflower
Soak overnight. Thick, crunchy stems with a nutty flavour. Ready in 8–12 days. Remove the seed hull if it sticks to the leaves.
Pea shoots
Sweet, tender, taste like fresh peas. Ready in 10–14 days. Can regrow a second harvest from the same roots.
Broccoli
Mild, slightly earthy. One of the most nutrient-dense microgreens (high in sulforaphane). Ready in 8–10 days.
Mustard / Mizuna
Hot, wasabi-like bite. Germinates fast, ready in 7–10 days. Mix with milder varieties for balance.
Basil
Slow (12–16 days) but intensely aromatic. Needs warmth to germinate (22–25 °C). Worth the wait.
Common problems
Mould / fuzzy growth
Cause: too wet, poor air circulation, seeds too dense. Fix: reduce watering, remove the cover earlier, space seeds slightly more. Note: white fuzz at the base of stems is often root hairs, not mould — spray with water and it disappears (mould doesn't).
Leggy / falling over
Cause: too little light after uncovering. Fix: move closer to the window or add a grow light.
Uneven germination
Cause: uneven watering, dry spots, or old seeds. Fix: mist evenly, use fresh seeds, pre-soak large seeds.
Bitter taste
Cause: harvested too late (past true-leaf stage) or too much light stress. Fix: harvest earlier, when cotyledons are fully open but before the first true leaf is large.
Start with radish — it's almost impossible to fail. Once you have the rhythm (sow Monday, uncover Thursday, harvest next Monday), stagger multiple trays so you always have a fresh batch ready.