Bed layout & sun planning
The placement of the bed itself — and what goes where inside it — matters more than almost any other decision. A sunny, well-oriented bed with the tall plants on the correct side produces two or three times the yield of a poorly planned one, even with identical soil and watering. Plan once, reap for years.
Why layout matters
Sun is non-negotiable — most vegetables need 6+ hours of direct sun. Underplant a shady spot and you'll fight poor yields forever.
Height matters — tall tomatoes on the south side of the bed cast shade over everything behind them. The whole back row suffers.
Wind shapes yields — a row of runner beans in an exposed spot snaps in the first August storm. Shelter changes the game.
Access decides usage — a bed you can't reach into easily gets weeded and harvested less. Badly placed beds turn into abandoned beds.
Sun requirements
Observe your garden for a full day before building a bed. Sunlight shifts dramatically with the seasons — a spot that's sunny in June may be in deep shadow in April and September.
Full sun (6+ hours)
Tomato, pepper, aubergine, cucumber, squash, melon, sweetcorn, beans, most Mediterranean herbs (basil, oregano, thyme, rosemary). This is the ideal SFG spot. If you only have one sunny corner, prioritize fruiting crops.
Partial sun (4–6 hours)
Lettuce, chard, kale, spinach, radish, beet, carrot, peas, parsley, chives, mint. Leafy and root crops tolerate — sometimes prefer — less direct sun, especially in hot summers.
Light / dappled shade (2–4 hours)
Mint, chervil, sorrel, wild garlic, wood strawberry, salad burnet, lemon balm. Far fewer options, but a shady corner can still produce useful greens.
Deep shade (under 2 hours)
Don't put a vegetable bed here — you'll be disappointed. Use it for a seating area, compost bin, tool storage or shade-loving ornamentals instead.
Height staggering
Arrange plants inside the bed so tall ones don't shade shorter ones. In the northern hemisphere the sun moves across the southern sky, so shadows fall north of the plant.
Tallest plants on the north side — tomatoes, pole beans, corn, sunflowers, climbing peas on a trellis.
Medium-height plants in the middle rows — bush beans, peppers, kohlrabi, chard, bush tomatoes.
Low-growing plants on the south side — lettuce, radish, carrots, beets, herbs, strawberries.
Southern hemisphere: mirror it. Tall crops on the south, low crops on the north.
Bed orientation
Long axis N–S (recommended)
Each row runs north-south, so all rows get equal morning and afternoon sun. Tall plants still go in the northernmost row. This is the better choice for most SFG layouts.
Long axis E–W
Rows run east-west, so the southern row shades everything behind it all day. Only works well if you plant deliberately in descending-height rows. Otherwise costs you significant yield.
Wind & shelter
Observe the prevailing wind direction in your garden (often southwest in temperate climates). Tall, floppy plants in its path = broken stems.
A wall, hedge or fence 2–3 m upwind reduces wind speed by 50% for a distance of ~10× its height downwind.
Porous shelter (hedge, trellis with climber) beats solid (wall, fence) — solid walls create turbulence on the leeward side.
Vulnerable crops (tomato, pepper, corn, tall beans): place in the most sheltered corner. Tough crops (kale, leek, chard): use to buffer the exposed edge.
Paths & access
Access is the silent yield-killer. A bed you have to crawl around is a bed that loses to weeds.
Between two beds: at least 60 cm for foot access, 90 cm if you use a wheelbarrow. Tighter and you'll compact the sides and snap stems every time you pass.
Maximum reach is 60 cm — any point in the bed must be within 60 cm of a path edge. A 1.2×1.2 m bed is the practical maximum without stepping in.
Mulched paths (wood chip, straw, gravel) stay dry, suppress weeds and don't turn to mud after rain.
Plan a wider access path (1 m+) if you use a wheelbarrow or garden chair — being able to wheel compost right up to each bed matters.
Planning checklist (before you build)
Sun check — observe the planned spot hourly for one full sunny day in spring. At least 6 hours of direct sun for fruiting vegetables.
Water access — a tap or rain butt within a hose's length (max 15 m). You'll water far less often if it's a hassle.
Orient the long axis north-south unless slope or site forces otherwise.
Plan tall plants on the northern edge (northern hemisphere); sketch the height stagger on paper before planting.
Leave at least 60 cm walking paths between beds, 90 cm if a wheelbarrow will pass.
Identify prevailing wind direction and plant a living windbreak or position vulnerable crops in the sheltered corner.
Before you dig, stand in the planned bed spot at 10 AM, noon, and 4 PM on a sunny day. If you're in the sun all three times, it's perfect. If one of those checks is shadow, plan accordingly — don't hope it'll be fine. It won't.