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Propagation by Cuttings

Cut a shoot from an existing plant, root it, and you've got a free clone of your favourite variety. Cuttings are faster than seeds, keep named varieties true, and work for many herbs, berries and flowers that are hard or slow from seed.

Why take cuttings?

  • Free plants — every shoot is a potential new plant, no seed packet needed.
  • True-to-variety clones — you get exactly the tomato, rosemary or currant you already love (seeds can vary).
  • Faster than seed for many perennials — a rooted lavender cutting skips a whole year of seedling growth.
  • Rescue a dying plant — take a cutting from healthy growth before the parent goes downhill.

    • Which plants take well from cuttings?

    Herbs: basil, mint, rosemary, thyme, sage, lavender, oregano, lemon balm, tarragon.

    Soft fruit: currant (black/red/white), gooseberry, raspberry, blueberry.

    Vegetables: tomato side shoots root in water in days. Pepper and chili side shoots also work.

    Flowers & decorative: geranium, fuchsia, hydrangea, many roses.

    When to take cuttings

    The type of cutting depends on the season. Most home gardeners start with softwood cuttings in spring and early summer — the easiest and fastest to root.

    Three types of cuttings

    Softwood cuttings (spring – early summer)

    Young, green, still-bendy tips of the current year's growth. 8–15 cm long. Root in 2–4 weeks. Works for basil, mint, tomato side shoots, fuchsia and most herbs.

    Semi-hardwood cuttings (late summer)

    Firmer stems that have started to go woody at the base but are still soft at the tip. 10–15 cm. Root in 4–8 weeks. Perfect for lavender, rosemary, sage, thyme.

    Hardwood cuttings (autumn – winter)

    Fully woody, leafless, pencil-thick sticks from the past year's growth. 20–30 cm, stuck straight into the garden soil or a pot. Root over winter, shoot in spring. Classic method for currant, gooseberry, grape.

    Step-by-step: softwood cutting in water

  • Cut a 10–15 cm tip from a healthy, non-flowering shoot with a clean, sharp blade. Cut just below a leaf node (the thickened bit where leaves meet the stem) — that's where roots will form.
  • Strip the lower leaves off, keeping only the top 2–4 leaves. Fewer leaves = less water loss while the cutting has no roots yet.
  • Place in a clean glass of room-temperature water, with the node submerged and the remaining leaves above water. A narrow-necked jar keeps the cutting upright.
  • Put it somewhere bright but out of direct sun — a north-facing windowsill is perfect. Direct sun overheats the water.
  • Change the water every 3–4 days to keep it fresh. Roots should show in 1–3 weeks depending on species.
  • When roots are 3–5 cm long, pot up into light, well-draining seedling mix. Keep humid for the first week (a plastic bag over the pot helps).

    • Tips for better success

  • Sharp, clean blade. Crushed stems rot instead of rooting.
  • Rooting hormone (gel or powder) speeds up roots on tricky species like lavender or rosemary. Dip the cut end before planting. Optional but helpful.
  • High humidity for the first week — a clear plastic bag or cut-off bottle over the pot acts as a mini-greenhouse.
  • No flowers. A cutting with flower buds puts energy into the bloom instead of roots. Snip the buds off.
  • Take multiple cuttings — not all will root. 5 cuttings, 3 survive is normal.

    • Troubleshooting

    Stem rots at the base

    Water too warm, cutting too deep in soil, or stem bruised at the cut. Take a fresh cutting with a clean blade, change the water more often, use a lighter potting mix.

    Leaves wilt and fall

    The cutting lost more water than it could take in. Remove more leaves, add humidity with a plastic bag, keep out of direct sun.

    No roots after several weeks

    Wrong season (softwood tried in late autumn), wrong plant (some species resist rooting), or too cold. Try again in spring with fresh material and a warmer spot.

    When is it ready to plant out?

    Water method: when roots are 3–5 cm long and branching. Soil method: gentle tug gives slight resistance, or new leaves start to appear at the tip — both signs the roots have taken hold. Pot up carefully; water roots are fragile and prefer a softer landing than a heavy garden soil.

    SFG bonus: take semi-hardwood cuttings of rosemary and lavender in late summer, overwinter them in pots on a cool windowsill, and plant them out next spring. One 5-minute snip = a free perennial for next year's bed corners.

    Cutting rooting in a glass of water

    Keep the top leaves (2–4)

    Water level — node just below

    Cutting (10–15 cm)

    New roots from the node